Hammond buying advice

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Hi there,

I am currently looking at a few organs and was wondering if there is anything special to look out for. Having played these for a few years but never owned one myself I know the basics to look out for (like testing the notes, checking the solderings to the generator etc) but what would you say is the most important to look after when inspecting?

Currently looking at a M111 with a 145 leslie and a C3 with probably a 122 leslie (the guy selling isn't sure but from pictures it looks like a 122)
 
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The last Hammond to come off of a production line (with a tone generator) is 1974 and that would be the B3/C3 series. Some of the other models (A-100 series) are 60’s vintage. So you are dealing with equipment that is at least 40 years old and most likely older. There is natural wear and tear; capacitors will break down and ‘drift’, pickups will drift and you will get cross-talk. I have heard to avoid somewhere in the neighborhood of 1964-65 B3/C3's because they used foam rather than felt inside the back of the boards which has been known to breakdown. Here is what I’d recommend from an advice point of view:

Read this article:
http://www.dairiki.org/HammondWiki/HowToTestDriveAHammond

Post this question to a Forum dedicated to Hammond enthusiasts who could provide perhaps alternative advice:
http://www.organforum.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?24-Hammond-Organs

Here is a link where they point out typical things you shouldn’t see on a Hammond organ, meaning the part or item could be counterfeit or have been replaced with a non-factory part:
http://vintagehammond.com/counterfeit/
 

Fin

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Me and my dad went to look at a Hammond M3, and the first thing we found was the start up motor didn't work. Always check the start up moter, and when moving a tonewheel organ always lock in the tone generator. If tone wheels get bumped during moving, they can go out of tune, or stop working entirely, if i understand correctly. I'm no expert, but that's one of the things I know to check for.
 

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